Second Letter Home - Oct. 12, 1993

October 12, 1993

Hi All,

I stated this letter on 9/25 and added to it as I went … yesterday (on page 11) I decided it needed to be “weeded”!  Now it is “highlights”.

            We left home stay, I cried.  Thai people don’t show emotions, but my “Kuhn May” cried too, she has already written me a letter!  (In Thai!)  Fortunately she pretty much knows my language capabilities and stayed within those parameters.  She is very sweet, and with all the ruins and sites around Ayuttahaya, I am sure everyone who comes to visit will get to meet them.

            “lao gaw”… and then…

            We had four days “off”, so we went to Koh  Samet.  It is an island about two hours away from Bangkok, towards Cambodia.  Tiny, untouristed, a wonderful place.  We took a case of tonic, a bag of limes, a bottle of vodka, a jar of peanut butter, and a box of crackers!  It was great (especially getting on the bus with a case of tonic!)  We were lucky enough to find gin on the island.  Everything is so inexpensive there.  Peace Corps gave us 200 baht reimbursement for lodging (or $8,00 per night).  We had the sweetest bungalows for 800 baht, four people to each.  They must have known the amount the Peace Corps gives us!

            It was beautiful there, practically untouched.  Our bungalow had a western bathroom, air conditioning, a bug zapper, and screens on the windows.  Screens are a plus, because the mosquitoes were the size of two seater helicopters! And they were hungry!  Ten people from our group went, there is lots of farang food on the island.  Jeff and I were eating tuna fish sandwiches for breakfast!  Yum!  The island gets enough foreigners … we spoke Thai and the people that work there answer in English!  The beach was nearly empty, and our bungalow was right on the beach, it was white, clean sand.  The water was clear blue, warm, postcard water.  Just beautiful!

            On Sunday, it rained, so we left!  Ha!  Actually, we had to be in Lopburi by Sunday night.  Getting back was a riot!  We took a “song taow” (truck with benches in the back), to the ferry, where we took a boat to the mainland, where we got on the air-con bus (like a greyhound tour bus) to Bangkok, where we got on a town bus to the train station, and a train to Lopburi!  It is about three inches on the map, and it took us eight and a half hours!  What fun!

            We had three days of Crossover training with the TEFL’s (Teaching English as a Foreign Language), we will have the opportunity to teach too.  We learned about small income generation, how to make toothpaste (baking soda, salt, and flavor – yuck, I don’t recommend it!), beaded jewelry (I cant wait to try this!), how to make stamps (like rubber stamps) out of sweet potatoes, and to make stationary, and my personal favorite – recycled paper!  I will try to make some postcards and send them to you.  We also got an introduction to integrated farming and natural farming.  Basically using every part of your farm, no chemicals, etc.  Minimize your input to maximize your output.

            Then we split up, TEFL stayed in Lopburi, and forestry (there are six of us) started traveling.

            First we went to “Nam Nao National Park”.  We stayed there for eight days, up in the mountains a bit, long sleeved shirts!  Our first jungle!  We had two bungalows for all 14 of us.  The Ajaans (teachers) got one and we got the other.  Three boys, three girls and one bathroom!  The first night, Jeff and I woke up to “something eating”.  We put the flashlight all over, but the bear or elephant was too fast… the claw marks around the package of sunflower seeds was all the proof we needed.  (it was a mouse, hee hee!). 

            We took several hikes around the jungle, it was very pretty.  It’s a good thing we tired ourselves out, because we only have electricity from 6pm to 10pm, and no place else to go.  Jeff and I have improved our “War” card game, strategy techniques.  Good team building too!  We play a lot of cards and all read the same books.

            We have class until 3:30 or 4:00pm each day, Thai, plus general ecosystems and tropical environments, etc.  One day we went to the waterfall.  It was about 20km away, and a one and a half kilometer hike off the road. The water fell about 60 feet, we swam and frolicked.

            Although it is the rainy season, there isn’t much water here.  So, we wash our clothes and shower at the public campsite restroom, a large bin of water.

            Another day we hiked up to a cave, a big rock with a big hole in it, plus the ever present Buddha shrine!  It was fun, tho.  Traipsing through the jungle, then up a rickety metal ladder into a big hole.  There were steps cut into the side of the mountain about 50 meters back, and a sign that said there was something 100 meters back (in Thai).  What a workout, serious stairmaster, at the top was an awesome view.  (I think I see Burma!).

            Oh yeah, coming back from the water fall we tried to go see the “pine forest”, we are at a high altitude, so there are real pine trees.  It started raining, the road turned to mud, then to a river… we turned around.  One day we took a long hike, we went through three forest types.  Grasslands at that altitude are beautiful!

            On Friday, we went to visit a farmer in Petchabon, named PeGao.  (Pe is the respectful title for “older than me”, everyone calls me PeTracy!)  PeGao had some brilliant ideas about stopping soil erosion and asked the local Peace Corps Volunteer to help.  That was about seven years ago and the Peace Corps is still taking new trainees to see him.  We got to see a lot of what we are learning, put into practice.  PeGao was pulling up some beans, ground cover, to show us how rich the soil was, when a black snake slithered over Juli’s foot!  Every body scattered, PeGao caught it and we all took pictures!  Lee tried to help catch it and got bit!  It was a Sing snake, about five feet long.  PeGao said it wasn’t dangerous.  “Ngoo my antarai”.  My first snake in Thailand!  The next day in class we learned to say “Kow my kuen len gup ngoo how” (people shouldn’t play with a cobra!).  that still tickles me!

            That evening we arrived in Pitsanaloke for two days of R&R.  We stayed at an ok hotel, nothing too extravagant for your tax dollar, but boy, after all the different places we had stayed – that hot shower was heaven!  I had my own room, and washed all my clothes in the bathtub!  We went out to dinner and all I wanted was a bubble bath.  I never found any bubbles (for my bath) but, the hot water in the tub was great.  I pretty much hibernated, wrote letters, read, went for walks, etc.  Saturday night I saw a couple of people, going bowling!  Turns out, everyone took advantage of the time off to be alone and hibernate!

            Sunday afternoon, we are off to Uttaradit, to live on a land settlement for two weeks.  This place is actually very nice, by Thai standards and mine too.  The Sirikit Dam was built about 20+ years ago, it is the largest earth dam in Thailand.  There are 60+ villages that were displaced and resettled here.  There is a lot of money, but a strange absence of 20-40 year old's.  The Volunteer here told us there is a serious problem in this area with families “selling” their children into prostitution, most of the time they don’t know it, and usually when they realize it is too late.

            One day we went to a farmer’s house and learned how to make charcoal.  We got to do everything, from cutting the wood to hauling it and stacking it in the kiln.  Very interesting, a lot of work in this heat!

            Later, we went to a nursery and each picked out two trees.  We’ve been learning all about trees and propagation, etc.    We then planted them in the PCV’s yard.  We were afraid the ”kwai” (water buffalo) would eat them, but, so far – only bugs.

            We have also gone to see a woman’s group making bamboo hats.  I learned how to weave bamboo!  Also, and herbal medicine maker, he was a cool guy.  He showed us a couple of teas, but he believes if you show respect, have good friends and enjoy yourself, you’ll never be sick!! 

            We had a second homestay here, for a week.  It was really fun.  #1 because I speak Thai a lot better than I thought I did!  They understood everything I said.  Plus, I am getting a little more confidence and talking a lot more.  Unfortunately, they speak three dialects besides Thai (Glong Tin ? and Laos).  It is still Thai, but some key words are different. 

            The family I live with is very well off, he (PePytoon) is an Ajaan (teacher) at the grade school.  She (PeNoy) is a very busy housewife.  They have two sons, “Mee” is 20 years old and goes to University in Bangkok.  Since PePytoon is an Ajaan we can assume this is true, educated people don’t sell their children).  “Mooey” is 14, he is the sweetest kid.  He is very traditionally Thai and helps with everything!  They have a Mango orchard with about 300 trees.  They are doing a ton of grafting, about 10 per tree, they sell them for 20 baht each (just under a $1).  Their house has every kind of tree I have ever heard of, plus a bunch of edible plants (no garden though).  It is a veritable farmer’s market.  It’s amazing, almost every tree is edible; fruit, leaves, seeds, bark, etc.  Plus, every weed!  I think this art has been lost in America, we have planted way too many ornamentals.

            Last Saturday, (my first day here), PeNoy said we were going “by tiow” (go on a trip) to her friends house.  Now I am sure she told me why, but I must’ve missed it!  We get there, with her neighbor and best friend, PeJim, two very cool ladies.  PeJim takes me towards the back of the room, 20 ladies are sitting on the floor, a group of men are outside building something religious and drinking.  PeJim introduces me to the lady that lives there and the three of them are telling me that the woman’s child had died, she (the child) was 39 years old.  Thai people say in English “Baby Dead”.  PeJim pointed to a mosquito net, with someone lying in there.  Yep, I was at my first Thai funeral!  The men were out building a casket.  Someone went out and picked a ton of flowers.  We spent the day arranging flowers into banana stalks, which make great flower holders.  We all respectfully hovered while they placed “her” in the casket, and then we left and went to another party that evening.  At the second party, PeJim, who had been talking with me all day, sort of, and felt she knew my skill level, would get between anyone who wanted to meet me.  Thai people are very curious of us and every time someone came over (to see the farang or maybe feed it), she told them that they “could ask me where I was from, how old I was, if I had a boyfriend and to ask SLOWLY!”  She know how much I would understand and be able to answer! (After the fourth person it became funny, I was expecting her to toss me a fish!).  Later that night we stopped back at the funeral and it was still going strong!  The next day, people went to their house all day again.  Around 1:00 pm they took her to the Wat (temple) and cremated her.  A big fire, casket up on sticks and lots of Monks.  I think I was reaching my cultural limit.

            Tonight we had our Thank You party, we ate, danced, sang and drank.  Thai people love Whiskey!    We really had fun!  When I stood up and said, in Thai, “Thank you to my family…etc. etc.” PeNoy had tears in her eyes, she told me later she had eaten a pepper… I told her I did too!

            So, tomorrow we head to Udon Tani.  We’ll be there for nine or ten days, then on to Saraburi for three days.  Then back to Gloongteb (Bangkok) for language exams and Peace Corps swearing in.  Then off to my site!  They will pick our sites around the 22nd so we get to spend Halloween in Bangkok.

            I have seen two charity organizations at work here.  CARE America has a couple ex Peace Corps volunteers working with Hill Tribe People.  We met with one to better understand dealing with Thai gender relationships.  She was very informative – really great. 

            Plus, each Nicome has three or four people that work for CCF, Christian Children’s Fund.  They decide which kids need assistance and help the kids write letters to the donors.  They also organize training for the villagers on almost everything.  Aids Awareness, new farming techniques, etc. etc.  From here it appears a very worthwhile charity.

October 17th, 1993

            I am in Udon Tani now, back with the TEFL’s who are in a very nice hotel, it is like a resort.  I spent the weekend with Lisa there and we swam and read (not at the same time) and I am half way through Jurassic Park!  Good Book!

            I tried to call Dad on Saturday around 4pm, thinking it would be Friday 2pm and got the answering machine at the office.  It was funny to hear my voice from back in the real world.  Anyway, everyone was in the room and teasing me that he took the day off and was out on the boat!  … about 45 minutes later, it dawned on me that it was 2 AM.  I guess I cant expect that much commitment!  (Tracy mee hua agate!… is an air head!).

            I did get hold of him on Sunday morning, kind of a shock to my system to hear his voice!  I don’t know if I said anything more than “tracy babble” I can’t wait to come back and take everyone to a Thai restaurant!  (Where did that come from!)  Anyway, I hope I remembered to say, “I love you” and tell everyone that!

            So, my second homestay was wonderful!  It was so much more fun, the village was very different (it was in the North) and I can speak a lot more Thai, communication is good, a plus!  I feel I made friends for life!  Which I guess, if a foreigner came to visit me, I would feel the same way.

            About my Thai – none of the Ajaans seem too worried about my communication skills (except they say I speak English way too much).  Homestay helped there, no English!  I wish I was more comfortable, but it is ok.  Cross-Culturally, I am doing very well (top side of the trainee curve!)  I am one of the most easy going people here, and don’t have much trouble accepting some of the “differences” due to culture.  Every now and then something will bother me, the dogs, a tuk-tuk or samlor driver yelling, “farang… hey you … where you go?”  I shudder to think of dealing with it for two more years… nothing unacceptable though.

            I have already made a tiny dent of a difference to a village, it might not be development, but I feel like I personally made a difference…

            At the homestay, there was a dog (I don’t know who it belonged to) that had been hit by a truck, it’s hips were broken, so it drug itself around with its front legs and was very scrawny.  The KoonYai (PeNoy’s grandmother) would feed it and tie it up in the shade, but I think she did this because it stunk so badly.  When she fed it the chickens would try to get his food, and all he could do was growl at them, whenever it growled everyone would shoo the chickens away (which led me to believe these are somewhat compassionate people, plus Buddhists wont kill, unless necessary like for food).  This dog was SO covered with lice, fleas and worms, etc.  a picture that nightmares are made of… it broke my heart.  He would howl in misery constantly.  The second day it got to me, I told the KoonYai it wasn’t ok, I had to do something.  I asked her if we could put something on it.  We had learned about Neem in our training, a botanical pesticide the Thai people use as a bug repellent.  She took me into the backyard to the Neem tree called Doan Sadow.  We picked a couple of handfuls and she showed me how to make it.  We let it set, and the next day when I came home the Neem was gone and so was the dog.  KoonYai told me not to worry any more the dog had died last night and is ok now.  I guess that means in a better place.  I was relieved, but knowing what I do about Thailand, someone “took care of it” because they really don’t want their farang guest stressed!  It is sad to think, but it crossed my mind to wonder if I could put it out of it’s misery?  I am still not sure of the answer to that.  So, I made a difference, talked to a villager about a botanical pesticide and even learned to make some!